when bass just wont BITE!!

[n2b]

What do you do when the bass just wont bite. Ive heard that finess worms work well but i would like to here yalls take on the subject.

ThanX

[sabass]

down size your lure and tackle to the smallest you can get away with.

[Infisherman1]

Fish baits SLOW!!! Last tournament I had, the bite shut off completely by 10:00, nothing was biting. Only way I saw anybody get fish after that was just by sitting on one stretch of shoreline fishing a worm SLOW. Often a mismatched 1/16oz bullet weight with a 10in worm will do the trick. The big slow moving meal is hard for bass to resist in most any condition.

[madmarty]

My #1 bait for fishing in tough situations is a 4" smoke grub on a 1/4 oz. leadhead. I find it most productive hopping it off the bottom.

[n2b]

now when you say slow down how do you work the worm like bump it once or twice let sit for a 5 count then bring your rod to like a two o clock position then reapeat.

another thing i like to use tubes would you hop it let sit for a slow 2 or 3 count then repeat.

[okefenokee010]

If the bite is REAL tough, I will let a worm (or other plastic bait) sit for a minute or more. Don't worry about counting. Cast, eat some chips, take a sip of your drink, look at the birds flying overhead, call your mother (she would really like that!), THEN maybe move that worm.

Also a drop-shot rig will allow the bait to stay in the same place indefinately, but will still give some movement to it just by your hands moving or the boat rocking.

[ryan7261]

Tips for Tough Days

Every angler has tough days on the water. Bass may be biting but the strikes are few and far between. Next time you face a situation like this - and without a doubt, you will - here are a few techniques that will help you turn around slow days on the water. The goal is to increase the frequency of bites and develop a pattern and catches more fish down the road.

When the fishing is slow, the first change you can make is, is the lure size. For example, switch to 4 inch plastic worms, and small crankbaits, ultralight jigs like Road Runners, small bucktail jigs and small surface plugs. If that doesn't work, go the other direction, changing to oversized crankbaits, 11 inch hooktail worms or 3/4 oz. magnum willowleaf spinnerbaits. The techniques for fishing these lures stay the same, but remember small worms move faster in the water. Small surface plugs should make subtle noises. Don't jerk a Teeny Pop R so it makes as much noise as a 1/4 oz. Pop R. Work large worms faster than usual, but not so fast that they lose effectiveness.

On days when bass move close to cover - for example, after a cold front - present your worms and jigs as close and deep into structure as possible. Vertically jig plastic worms into tree lines along submerged creek channels. If you're fishing creeks, flip down the bank and make long pitches to isolated stumps and fallen trees. A close presentation is the key, because the strike zone is significantly smaller. The closer the lure is placed, the more likely it will attract a strike.

Move to a riprap area, which consistently holds fish because it provides cover for bass, as well a bass forage. Minnows, crayfish, shad, and frogs all live in and around riprap construction. Ideal lures are spinnerbaits with big blades, crayfish colored crankbaits, plastic crawdads, long plastic worms and buzzbaits. Fish slowly and methodically, working all crevices and cracks at a variety of depths.

Small jigs with spinners are ideal for catching crappie and bass. They offer flash, vibration, color and lure appeal based on size. A favorite lure in this category is the Blakemore Road Runner in the 1/8 oz. size. Use 6-8 pound test line and, generally, fish the lure around boat docks, piers, fallen trees, brushpiles and similar structure. Flip the Road Runner as close to these areas as close as possible, letting the lure fall on a tight line. This usually brings results, even an occasional big fish.

Move to an area with grass beds, especially well frown areas close to deeper water or prominent structure. Many grass beds float on the surface, which creates an open area between the grass and lake bottom. Bass seek safety and security between the two. Pitch a jig tipped with a pork chunk through the grass and work it slowly beneath the beds. Watch your line. If you sense anything unusual on the end of the line, set the hook! Heavy pound test line is essential because you literally must jerk fish out of the water before they bury themselves in weed growth.

Another tactic for weed covered water involves a 4 inch, soft plastic worm with a small slip sinker pegged into position. Cast the worm on top of a grass bed and let it sit for 10 to 15 seconds. Then, move the lure slowly and wait for the explosion.

A new technique for stubborn bass is a modified Carolina rig. Instead of a slip sinker, use a 1/32 or 1/16 oz. split shot weight. Tie the hook to a 4 or 5 foot leader of 6 to 8 pound test line, then tie the leader's other end to a swivel that's attached to your main line. Pinch the split shot above the swivel in a permanent position, and rig a worm or plastic craw on the hook. Position your boat above the area to be fished and cast the rig. When the lure reaches bottom, engage your reel and use the electric trolling motor to pull the lure across structure. If you're on a ledge, hold the lure near the drop off for a few moments, then let it fall off the ledge to the next level. Slow, tantalizing movements produce a winning technique.

Some days, bass simply won't feed. To change their minds, place feeding stimuli such as a pheromone ( a natural stimulant found in most commercial fish attractants) in the area you're fishing. Sprayed often, it has a chumming effect and often promotes strikes. The fish spray also cleanses lures of any human or offensive odors.

Last but not least, the answer to a bad day on the water is jumping points, those narrow sloping ridges that disappear into the water. Move from point to point, fishing a variety of lures until you find a point with some feeding bass on or around it. Keep record of lures and conditions that produce a fish, so a pattern can be developed.


Robby.

[BassNva]

IMO...the very 1st thing you do is try fishing different.for example,if you are fishing shallow,go a little deeper.if fishing deep,try shallower.
just as an example:saturday,i was catching a lot of bass when i pre-fished for a tourney.i was fishing 3-4ft deep and dropoffs.tried the same pattern on sunday,it did not work well.i caught enough to get 3rd place,but i should have had a lot more fish.my mistake,(and i found out AFTER the tourney)was the fish had moved into less than a foot of water and i failed to realize that until it was too late.i did learn a lesson after that spanking.

[redneck13]

If the bass are inactive, I go for the reaction bite and try to get as many casts and cover as much water as I can.Jerkbaits,spinnerbaits,'traps ,crankbaits,etc.

[bearpaw]

Try and dead stick a Senko.

[gonefishing]

I agree with the deadsticking a Senko idea, it seems to work very well for me. I also like to throw a Zoom U-Tale with a 1/32 oz. bullet weight on it and drag it on the bottom. This method helped me win first place in a tournament on Saturday.(8lbs. 6oz.)

[Infisherman1]

[quote author=bassnman30 link=board=news;num=1116197336;start=0#9 date=05/17/05 at 14:34:14]Try and dead stick a Senko.[/quote]

I forgot about that one. Deadsticking a senko in and around brushpiles had produced for me when nothing else will.