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#1 |
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Hey guys, just wanted to let you know about the new rod and reel I ordered today. My new baby(which I got express shipping on so I can use before I go to Alaska) is a St. Croix 7'0'' MH Action 1 piece, Premier Crankbait Series Rod matched up with a Shimano Citica Left-Handed Baitcasing reel. Hopefully, I can get a bit of practice with her before I leave for The Last Frontier on the 8th. And the good thing is, she was only $265.00 total!!!
Just wanted to let you know about my new baby... ![]() ![]() -LL-
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#2 |
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From the aforementioned post, what line do you think I should put on the reel?? It is rated for 155 yds of 10lb test. I was thinking of putting Power Pro 20lb test. Would this be good line to learn with?? Would it be good for deep crankin' like I want???
-LL-
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#3 |
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Most here who believe line visibilty is actually an issue [not me] will reccomend against using braid for crankbaiting. But if you are going to be using a braid, go with atleast 30lbs, atleast. Probably 50lbs would do you right.
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#4 |
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I want line that will cast far though. What line would be good for casting far and deep crankin'??
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#5 |
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Do not use braid for crankin' You will lose lots of fish... Use around 10lb mono.. I use Yo Zuri Stren and Pline they are my favs' and proven themselves to me time and time again.. But you dont want really heavy line for deep crankin' as it effects the depth. Thicker the line less depth you get. I recommend 10lb.
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#6 |
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clenskh is right... you do not want a heavy line, and I recommend a 10 lb. test... in Trilene MAXX or Sufix Elite will work too. Mono is a line with stretch, where braid has almost none to it... when using treble hook lures, you want something to act as a shock absorber. Good Fishing!
Ryan
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#7 |
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Put any test you want on it, that rating only means 10# diameter will take X amount of yards to fill. I would go with any line that you have confidence.
I have a rod just like it that I put Trilene 10-12-14 low vis on, but really any brand that you have confidence will work. I have been cranking with braid for 2 years now and love it! btw I still think I owe Lizards THANKS for this tip. |
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#8 |
BassFishin.Com Super Veteran
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In English JB?? LOL. Are you saying braid is the way to go for crankin??
Also, it is a 6.2:1 gear ratio. Will this matter what line I need to put on it for crankin'???
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#9 |
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Gear ratio is only saying how many yards[or maybe feet, I cant remember] of line will be reeled up with one complete turn of the handle.
What JB is saying, is that use a line you are comfortable with. I dont know why people dont think briad is good for cranking, maybe the line visibility aspect? I dont know but honestly I dont think that matters at all. So use a line you are confident in, braid will work fine. I only say use a heavier pound test because I've heard its easier to cast on baitcasters, but I'm a spinner myself so I'm not completely sure. PS, braid casts as good as any other once you spool it on right, and break it in.
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#10 |
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I think you would be happy with mono, I fished it for 25 years and just now went to braid, and let the rod absorb the impact, but you are correct in thinking mono has more stretch and can take the shock of the hit. For me, its just something dif, I enjoy the feel of the strike with braid.
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#11 | |
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for crankin you want mono only!! it gives enough stretch that it wont tear the hooks out of a fishes mouth.. a 6.2 reel is fine for shallow diving cranks and lipless baits.. if you want to use it for shallow cranks.. i sugesst a MINIMUM of 12 pound test mono.. remember this the deeper the crankbait will dive the slower the geared reel the lighter the line..and always MONO.. zooker
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#12 |
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Man, this is very confusing. What line(in terms of pound test and braid/mono) should I use for a 6.2:1 deep-cranking rod???
Just say what brand and lb test you prefer I use. Make sure to say if it is braid,mono,flouro.,etc...
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#13 |
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I'd run mono Trilene #12 low vis,
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#14 |
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What about Fireline of Suffix Elite or Powerpro??
Also, is 6.2:1 OK for deep-crankin'??? A lot of you guys are saying "no", but I have a bass fishin mag and Rick Clunn says he likes to use a 6.3 or 6:1 gear ratio for burnin' deep cranks. What is your guys opinion on this??? Thanks for all the other information though.
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#15 |
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Gear ratio means the numbers of rotations the spool makes for every turn of the handle. Shimano size 100 reels have a gear ratio of 6.2:1 and pick up 25 inches of line per turn of the handle, 200 size reels have a 6.2:1 ( 26 " IPT ) or 5:1 ( 21" IPT ), the only exception is the Calais 200 DPV with a gear ratio of 5:1 with an IPT of 17".
Cranks reach the max depth claimed by the manufacturer with line 0.28-0.31 mm dia, in most lines this diameter equals 10-12 lb test. Go higher in the diameter you loose depth, go lower you gain depth. |
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#16 |
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So would a 6.2:1 gear ratio be OK for deep-crankin??
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#17 |
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Dude, you are thinking WAY too much into this, wayyy tooo much. It is OK to use that reel, its not like it will explode if you try to deep crank with it. Line is all up to you, whatever you feel comfortable with. You asked for specs, JB gave them to you, and then you come back with a post asking about 3 other brands of line.
I use a 6'6" Shimano Siljourn[sp?] M action with a CD4-3000 Abu Garcia spinning reel for EVERYTHING I use. Rigged with 30lb braid. I dont sit here to myself and figure out how many different lines and rods/reels I will need to get to be able to fish something. Whats the point? I love to fish, to have fun fishing. I can tie on a worm or a crank or a jig on that spinning outfit and catch fish no matter the circumstances. You can sit there and get as technical and specific as you want, at the end of the day I'm using a... ehh I'd say maybe $75 combo, with 30lb briad, and catching fish every time I go out. I'm saving a lot of money for tackle, which I worry more about than fishing rods/reels. I have three outfits, and I dont believe any of them range over $100, and yet I catch fish all the time, and have a PR at 10lbs 3oz. And have caugth fish in the 7-9lb range a multitude of times. Take all your technical jargan and figure out what to use, while you do that I'll be out catching some HAWGS! =]
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#18 |
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What I'm wanting to know though is if the 6.2:1 will overcrank the crankbaits I use. Will it?? Amd will it wear out your arm like everybody says??
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#19 | ||
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![]() Quote:
Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]() Lizards
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#20 |
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LL, the reason most stay away from braid with crankbaits is due the stretch, or rather the lack of it. When a fish hits a crank you want to have some give in the line to act as a shock absorber, which is also why crankbait rods are M action.
I like to use 12 lb P-line Floroclear for crankbaits, but any mono will work.
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#21 |
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theres no need to worry about overcranking a crankbait, you should be using a variety of retrieves rather than just burning it as fast as your can back to your pole, Try a stop and go technique, mix in a slow retrieve, try going faster after you hit something, and after you get a strike duplicate whatever method was working that day.
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#22 |
BassFishin.Com Super Veteran
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An easy solution for those who want that stretch factor of Mono when crankbaiting, is to loosen your drag, that simple. If the bass if hitting that crankbait with enough force to make you worry about shock effect, well it will set itself, just play the fish in the rest of the way. If you use braid you wont loose that crank, if you use mono you might just. Its ALL ABOUT PREFERENCE. One guy likes mono, another swears by briad. Pick and choose, its up to you. There is absolutely no way no matter which rod/reel you select or even line that wont catch you fish, if you are fishing them correctly. Obviously if you decide to use an ultralight rod for deep cranking well you might stumble upon a problem or two, haha, but if you play it correctly you will catch fish, That simple. Its all about preference.
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#23 |
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To start, I'm going with Berkley Fireline as it is available near me and has a reasonable price tag on it. Will this tear up the guides on my new Croix though??
Thanks soooooooo much for all your guys' help with this topic... -LL-
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I don't see why schools are Public. If all schools were made Private, trespassers would be eliminated! Last edited by lunker-lander; 07-31-07 at 10:24 PM. |
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#24 |
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No. Nice and simple, just the way fishing should be. You dont spend money on a good rod to have the guides tear up due to braid.
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#25 | |
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![]() ![]() 20# has the diameter of 6# mono. This means that if you wanted to get the most out of it you will need to put a considerable amount of mono backing just to fill the spool to optimum capacity. Depending on the conditions you will be facing, I would go with the mono of your choice between 10-17# test. Sufix seige is a great line. It will serve you well. One spool can probably fill your spool twice, which is a plus. Now if money isn't an object and you have to use braid, then go with a minimum of 30# braid. A higher # test would be even easier to use. This is what I have on one of my curados. Add a mono backing and fill your spool to 1/3 - 1/2 full. Then, add the braid on top. You don't even have to tie the two lines together, but I do. The albright or double uni are very easy to tie. Your best bet for learning is with mono. Also, I know that a Citica D can toss light lures. But for beginner's sake, try to use lures that weigh at least 3/8 oz. Going lighter than this for now can spell trouble unless you have an experienced bc user with you who can help you if you have trouble casting lighter weights. Congrats on the new rig. I wouldn't mind adding a Citica to my arsenal. ![]() PS Braid has its own quirks like potential line dig and wrapping around your rod tip more often than other lines. You should know about it upfront so you can expect it. Good luck!
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